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These foods exploded on TikTok. But are they any good?

Madison Fares Pistachio Knafeh Fro-Yo in selfie mode.
Illustration: Igor Bastidas

On Instagram and TikTok, everything worth eating has a line attached to it. Whether social media fame is sparked by an influencer or the result of a concerted marketing effort to create a food's viral moment, digital popularity does not always correlate with actual quality. With that in mind, our Underground Gourmet columnist lines up every month to sample some of the city's most shared and popular dishes and find out which Instagram bait is really worth the wait.

Line 1: The hype Cinnabon
Red Gate Bakery68 E. 1st St., no. First Ave.
Until recently, these cinnamon rolls were only available on Fridays and Saturdays, a scarcity that has certainly contributed to their reputation, as has their visual appearance: a large spiral of enriched dough topped with a generous layer of fluffy cream cheese frosting and cinnamon sprinkles. In reality, the bun is a bit chewy, lacks the supple texture of a cinnamon bun, and the cinnamon filling wasn't flavored enough to make the whole bread seem interesting.
Is it worth the wait? The frosting was okay, with a nice buttery flavor, but it wasn't enough to make me want another one.

Line 2: The riceless burrito
Son del North177 Orchard St., no. Stanton St.
Although the order didn't take long, I was quoted a 20-minute wait for my carne asada burrito on a Friday night, which was enough time to grab a glass of wine across the street. I came back to a hot, hefty bundle wrapped in a lightly mottled, slightly translucent flour tortilla imported from Sonora, Mexico. The combination of charred beef, sticky Monterey Jack, and a sprinkle of soft beans was delicious but emphatic riceless The burritos lacked structure and ultimately left me unfulfilled.
Is it worth the wait? Yes, although you may be craving a little more strength.

Line 3: The Viral Pistachio Knafeh Frozen Yogurt
Madison Fare1225 Madison Ave., no. E. 88th St.
Almost every cooking influencer has tried to recreate the “Dubai chocolate bar,” filled with pistachio paste and crunchy grated phyllo. Amin Kinana of this downtown gourmet market decided to reinterpret it as a new topping for her Greek yogurt soft serve. The queue to try things out has now become a fixture that stretches across the entire block. Far from being an ice cream duplicate, the froyo is pleasantly sour and refreshingly icy, while the pistachio sauce is nutty and almost savory. The most surprising thing is how knafeh the knafeh stays crispy the whole time.
Is it worth the wait? As long as the weather is warm, yes.

Line 4: The Dominican Smashburger
El Sazon RD83 Baxter St., no. Bayard St.
To get the full effect, you have to order the smashburger with fried cheese at this small restaurant on the edge of Chinatown. It costs $2 extra, but without it, the thin Pat LaFrieda patty stacked with American cheese and a pickle on a potato bun would be like any other burger. The browned square disk hangs nicely over all sides of the bun, and its crispy, springy chew adds needed heft to another layer of protein, making even a single burger very satisfying.
Is it worth the wait? Just with the fried cheese.

Line 5: The Fancy Chopped Sub
Brown Bag Sandwich Co., 218 Thompson St., no. W. 3rd St.
Because this counter shop specializes in sandwiches with fillings shredded beyond recognition, it has become best known for its chopped cheese, which is often the first menu item to sell out that day. But I'd go for the roast beef sandwich, prepared spicy with a triple helping of horseradish sauce, arugula and very spicy provolone, plus a layer of pickled mustard seeds that brighten up the rosy house beef on a fresh long bun. Coarsely chopping preserves the integrity of all ingredients and ensures every bite is complete.
Is it worth the wait? A resounding yes.

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